At a glance
| What | Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca, on the Colle della Guardia |
| Hill altitude | 280 m above sea level |
| Length of the portico | 3,796 m — the longest in the world |
| Number of arches | 666 (316 on the plain + 350 on the hillside) |
| Start of the portico | Arco del Meloncello, on Via Saragozza |
| On foot from the station to the Meloncello | ~3.5 km, ~45 min |
| San Luca Express (tourist train) | From Piazza Galvani: €15 full price / €8 reduced, return trip |
| Duration of excursion | Half a day from Bologna Centrale |
If you have a free morning in Bologna and want something different from the city-centre squares, go up to San Luca. The sanctuary looks over the city from a hill to the south, but the real attraction is the road to get there: a continuous portico that climbs from the plain all the way to the summit without a break. It is the longest portico in the world, and one of the sections that brought Bologna’s porticoes onto the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2021.
This guide is designed to help you plan the excursion from the station: how to reach the start of the portico, what options you have if you do not want (or are not able) to walk the full ascent, and what to expect once you reach the top.
A portico of 3,796 metres and 666 arches
The numbers of this portico are the reason the journey is worth making. It measures 3,796 metres and counts 666 arches in total. It was built between 1674 and 1721, with the contribution of the entire Bolognese citizenry: families, guilds and confraternities “adopted” an arch and financed its construction.
The route divides into two very different sections:
- Plain section — from Porta Saragozza to the Arco del Meloncello: 316 arches for roughly 1.52 km, on flat ground.
- Hill section — from the Meloncello to the sanctuary: 350 arches for roughly 2.276 km, climbing uphill.
Along the hillside section you pass 15 chapels dedicated to the Mysteries of the Rosary. They are regular resting spots that break up the ascent — useful even simply to catch your breath.
A note on the number 666. The arch count is not universally agreed — depending on how the lateral entrances are counted, the total falls somewhere between 658 and 666. The number 666, however, is what popular tradition has always told: the “devil’s number”, crushed underfoot by the Madonna at the top of the hill. True or not, it is a good story for the climb.
Where the portico climbs to: the Colle della Guardia
The sanctuary stands on the Colle della Guardia, at 280 metres above sea level. From the city plain — which sits at around 50–60 metres — that means a real climb, not a symbolic one. The elevation gain over the last section, from the Meloncello to the basilica, is approximately 215 metres. It is the reason this same slope is a favourite among cyclists and features regularly in the finales of the Giro dell’Emilia.
At the top you find the eighteenth-century basilica and, above all, the view: the Bologna plain on one side, the first foothills of the Apennines on the other. On clear days you can see a very long way.
How to reach San Luca from the station
You have three options, depending on how much effort you want to put in and how much time you have. All of them begin, in practice, at Porta Saragozza or the Arco del Meloncello: that is where the portico starts.
1. On foot, the full portico
The option for those who want the complete experience. From the station you reach Porta Saragozza (to the south-west of the centre), join the portico and climb all the way to the top without ever stepping out from sun or rain.
- From the station to Porta Saragozza: ~2.5–3 km, walkable or by urban bus.
- From Porta Saragozza to the Meloncello: ~1.5 km on flat ground, under the portico.
- From the Meloncello to the sanctuary: ~2.3 km uphill, 350 arches.
Allow 45–60 minutes for the ascent alone from the Meloncello, at a relaxed pace with a few stops at the chapels. Comfortable shoes are essential.
2. By bus + the final stretch on foot
The most practical compromise if you do not want to walk the entire flat section. From the centre take bus 20 and get off at the Villa Spada stop on Via Saragozza; from there change to bus 58 up to the sanctuary. The same ticket is valid for both services — remember to validate it on both buses.
Note: bus 58 is not very frequent, so check the timetable on the TPER website before you go. A good strategy: go up by bus and walk down along the portico, so you enjoy the stroll downhill as far as the Meloncello without the effort of the ascent.
3. By San Luca Express (the tourist train)
The simplest option, especially for families or those with limited time. The San Luca Express is a road-going tourist train that departs from the centre and goes all the way up to the basilica.
- Departure: Piazza Galvani (next to the Archiginnasio, in the historic centre).
- Price: €15.00 full price · €8.00 reduced (children aged 6–10, school groups, disabled visitors and one companion).
- Ticket: return trip valid on the same day.
- Duration: around 1 hour round trip.
Departure times vary by season: download them from the official website before going (Bologna Welcome / City Red Bus).
The half-day excursion from Bologna Centrale
Here is how to fit San Luca into a morning, starting comfortably from your room. The beauty of it is that you are back in the centre for lunch.
Bologna Centrale
↓ reach Piazza Galvani / Porta Saragozza
City centre
↓ choose: tourist train, bus, or portico on foot
Arco del Meloncello — start of the uphill section
↓ ~45-60 min on foot (or by bus/tourist train)
San Luca Sanctuary — basilica + panoramic view
↓ descent along the portico (recommended)
Arco del Meloncello → Porta Saragozza
↓ return to the centre
Lunch in Bologna
Recommended strategy: go up by tourist train or bus (save your legs) and walk down along the portico. The descent is easy, scenic and lets you take in all 15 chapels at your own pace. All in, including stops, you will be away for a good half day.
Want to see how San Luca fits in with the rest of the city? Read our guide to Bologna’s UNESCO porticoes: the San Luca portico is the most famous, but the city has dozens of kilometres of them.
Practical tips
When to go. Early morning is ideal: better light for the view and a cooler ascent. In summer avoid the middle of the day — the hillside section has exposed stretches and can get very warm.
Water. Bring a bottle, especially if you are walking up. The ascent is long and chances to refill along the portico are few.
Rain. This is the hidden advantage of this trip: the portico covers virtually the entire route. In moderate rain you can climb to San Luca barely getting wet — there are few places in the world where a hill walk is this sheltered.
With the family. With young children or pushchairs, the San Luca Express is the sensible choice. The walk up is demanding for short legs.
Basilica opening times. The sanctuary’s opening hours vary with the season and religious services: check the official website before heading up.
FAQ
How long is the San Luca portico really? 3,796 metres, with 666 arches in total. It is recognised as the longest portico in the world. It divides into a plain section (316 arches, ~1.5 km) and a hillside section (350 arches, ~2.3 km).
Can you reach San Luca without walking? Yes. The San Luca Express (tourist train) departs from Piazza Galvani and goes all the way to the basilica: €15 full price, €8 reduced, return trip. Alternatively, a combination of bus 20 + bus 58 will get you close to the sanctuary.
How long does it take to walk up? From the Meloncello to the sanctuary, allow 45–60 minutes at a leisurely pace, along the 350 arches of the hillside section. From the station, the full walking excursion requires more time: it is better considered a half-day trip.
Why are the arches said to number 666? It is the number of tradition, linked to the symbolism of the “devil’s number” defeated. The actual count, depending on the method, ranges between 658 and 666.
Is it worth going in the rain? Yes, in fact more so: the portico covers almost the entire route, so you can make the walk even in moderate rain without getting wet. It is one of the few places where a hill walk is under cover.
Where does the portico start? The uphill section starts at the Arco del Meloncello on Via Saragozza; the flat section links the Meloncello to Porta Saragozza. Most visitors join the portico at the Meloncello.
Check availability — your room 20 m from the station
Bologna Station Suites is 20 metres from Bologna Centrale. Leave your bags in the room, reach the centre in a few minutes and head off to San Luca by tourist train, by bus or on foot under the portico. The morning of your excursion begins without any complicated transfers.
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Find out where to stay: Our rooms · Explore the area: The Neighbourhood · Read more: Bologna’s UNESCO porticoes